We spoke to the Founder of the White Mule Distillery about what it takes to make it in the Spirits world. Gary had some great insight coming from a small craft distillery, and we appreciate his honesty.
Gary, I would like to kick off by asking what the backstory is to setting up the White Mule Distillery, how you came to be involved and what drew you to the project?
GG: The backstory starts with anger. I was angry at my boss, I was angry at the Army, and I was heart-broken that I left my two month old daughter and wife (of 10 years who was still recovering from a near death pregnancy) for the next nine months while I was deployed in support of Operation Enduring Freedom. I knew I was going to have to find something else.
Gary we understand that’s not easy to share. Thank you for being so honest with us. Please tell me how the distillery came about?
GG: I wasn’t always a Soldier. I have been making liquor since I was a kid. In that anger, I figured that I should make the hobby that had supplemented my families income for many, many years a full time gig. So long story short, I finished up my contract for active duty, got out, visited a million banks to try and source funding, and then finally got the doors open this past October.
What have been the main challenges involved in setting up a new distillery?
GG: I’m not a retired Doctor, Lawyer, Banker, etc. so I have come into this venture pretty cash strapped and without a lot of specialized business acumen. I have a AA in Business Admin, but until recently, I hadn’t reconciled an asset/liability sheet since 2008.
Gary, tell us your favorite thing about going into the distillery each day?
GG: The feeling of “getting away” with something. I have come a long way from my very modest upbringing. I feel so very blessed that I’ve managed to accomplish so much and been afforded the opportunity to craft a product that really embellishes the terrior of the Ozarks.
Why did you start production? Did you see a gap in the market or was it to fulfill some passion?
GG: Both to a certain extent. I love the Ozarks. I left home in 2008 to enlist in the Army and I really missed the Ozarks; the water, fresh tomatoes from the garden, the landscape, all of it. I also happen to love making whisky and have been making it since I was 13. Currently there are a few distilleries in the area, but they are capitalizing on traffic that naturally goes through the tourist areas of Branson. They are pretty good, but I didn’t see a real focus on really pulling out the terrior of the Ozarks. That is where I suppose my niche is. I use spring water “straight outta the holler”, local (within 10 miles) grain, and hand cut hickory for smoke and charcoal polishing.
What whiskey expressions do you currently produce, and how are they all different?
GG: I produce a corn whisky, a rested whisky (Whisky distilled from a bourbon mash), and an apple pie liqueur. The corn whisky I think is significant because it’s meant to be a stand alone product. It isn’t just a spirit that is bottled because I don’t have the patience to put it in a barrel. I double distill it to 150 proof and polish it with hand made charcoal. It’s a lot of work, but it’s flavorful and as complex as a clear whisky could ever be.
The Rested Whisky is really unique. I have a secret process that takes clear whisky and turns it into a flavorful brown whisky in a week. It’s smooth, extremely smooth. It doesn’t taste like anything on the market. I vat this from both Limousine and American Oak. You still get some of those bourbony, sweet, coconut lactone flavors, but as an added twist you pick up some really nice toasted marshmallow notes from the French Oak.
Where do you think the most flavor control can occur? Grain? Yeast? Water? Wood?
GG: That is a tough question. It’s a lot like a car. The engine, brakes, and steering wheel are all crucial parts to getting you down the road. I do a lot of experimentation with wood. I currently have a favorite expression that is made using staves made from Black Walnut, although you will have to stop by the distillery if you ever want to sample that one.
We definitely will one day Gary! What three words do you want people to associate with your whiskey?
GG: Artisan, Ozark, Unique
Does the weather or the geographic location influence your whiskey maturation?
GG: Most definitely. I have a friend in Texas that makes bourbon. He makes a fine product and some of his stuff is ready in around a year or so with the hot Texas summers. I’m in a very humid, well shaded Ozark holler. I’ve got whisky that has been sitting in barrels since the summer and they still have a long ways to go.
What are the most important factors affecting whisky distillation?
GG: Knowing when to make your cuts. A lot of craft distillers, even myself at first really tread on that fine line of making their cuts too extreme. There are a lot of esters that taste horrible coming out of the still, but given some time and oak, really make a complex spirit. Try Dickel’s white dog and then try their barrel select (4+ years). Their number one corn whisky is just terrible. Their barrel select is absolutely fantastic though and it’s the same mash bill.
How do you ensure that these are carefully balanced to produce a consistently high quality product?
GG: The easiest way for me has been to pull out some old plays. Using the same mash bill, paying close attention to the ABV of your distillers beer, closely monitoring ph, and consistent cuts help out a lot. I also use a sour mash for consistency and my ph adjustments. Additionally I vat from multiple batches before bottling.
What are your hopes for the distillery 5 years from now? What do you want to be known for?
GG: Five years from now I hope we are expanding in production and distribution. I want us to be known as the guys that didn’t make bourbon. There is already a lot of great bourbon on the market and most of it comes from Kentucky and Tennessee. I don’t want to recreate their products; I want to create something that is fantastic and can be closely associated with the Ozarks.
Do you have any role models in this industry?
GG: I have a few. I’m a big fan of Jack Daniels. Their story is consistent with their methods and they really do support their surrounding community. Chip Tate, the founder of Balcones is another one that I look up to. Again, a great product and he really does look at all of the variables that contribute to flavor. It’s evident in their product offering and is significant on the palate.
Do you remember your first dram? Is there a story behind it?
GG: Yep. I was 13 and distilled of my first batch of moonshine off of a still made out of my moms pressure cooker. I never had whisky before in my life, but I was in love with the idea of making it after reading the Foxfire Books. My grandpa had kind of talked me through the whole process. I threw away the first couple of tablespoons like grandad said and just took a sip out of the glass. I thought I just drank starting fluid and was really worried that I would go blind. It was safe to say I didn’t quite realize that it was probably around 170 proof.
Wow, that’s a great story! Anything else you’d like to share with Tastethedram readers?
GG: Come visit the Ozarks and while you’re here be sure to swing by my holler.
Fore More Information on the Distillery Please visit the following links:
Website: http://www.ozarkwhisky.com
